It was the cab drivers in Guwahati who first gave me an unforgettable insight. They told me that thousands of people gather every day at the cremation site of Zubeen Garg in Sonapur to pay their respects to the departed soul. One driver, Kartik Das, mentioned that the crowd often exceeded 5,000 and that people continued to visit throughout the day and even at night.
I was deeply moved by what they said and felt an undeniable urge to visit the place myself and witness it all. The very next day, being a Sunday, I called Kartik Das and told him I wished to visit Sonapur. He arrived soon, and we set out on our journey. Throughout the drive, he spoke passionately about Zubeen da and what an irreparable loss his passing has been for Assam.
As we neared the site, I began to see hordes of vehicles—cars filled with people heading toward the same destination. Several buses were also on their way, packed with passengers who had come from distant places, some having booked tempo travellers just to visit the site. Due to the heavy rush, our vehicle moved slowly. The entire scene felt like we were proceeding toward a pilgrimage—an experience both strange and deeply moving.
When we finally reached, I was completely dumbfounded by the spectacle. A huge crowd had gathered, and devotion was visible on every face. Many people were lighting incense sticks and diyas at the spot where Zubeen da had been cremated. The number of diyas seemed countless, and the air was filled with the soothing fragrance of burning incense. The atmosphere was serene, sacred, and beyond the imagination of the human mind.
Non-stop prayers were being held in a large tent, where people sat together in deep devotion. Another tent, as I was informed, displayed various mementos and honours that Zubeen da had received during his lifetime a touching tribute to his extraordinary journey.
Everywhere I looked, there were people easily more than 5,000 and many more arriving by the minute. Kartik told me that even if I were to visit again at 3 a.m., the crowd would look the same. The devotion I witnessed was overwhelming, and I felt certain that the numbers would only grow in the days to come.
Standing there, I realized that beyond his extraordinary singing talent, it was Zubeen da’s kindness, generosity, and selfless charitable spirit that had added an aura of divinity to this place. What I witnessed was not just mourning it was reverence, faith, and love in their purest form.
In today’s digital, materialistic, and highly commercialized world where genuine emotions are often replaced by emojis it is truly remarkable to witness such a rare and moving example of unity, devotion, respect, and heartfelt connection with a beloved departed soul.
